One of the top rated places to visit in Austria is the
Benedictine Abbey in Melk. It is a gorgeous abbey founded nearly one thousand
years ago. At its zenith it was home to seventy monks, a place of visit for
Austrian royalty, and a center for diplomatic affairs in northern Austria. Now
it is home to thirty monks, an ecclesiastical treasury, and a middle and high
school for children of the surrounding countryside. It still supplies fifteen
priests to it’s subsidiary parishes in the rejoin. Melk is a charming town, still very small and as we walked
up cobblestone streets we enjoyed the beautiful view of the picturesque homes
over which stood the gloriously dominating figure of the abbey.
We arrived at the perfect time to join a guided tour. The
tour took us through the “secular side” of the monastery, where the Austrian
royal family used to live when visiting. It is now a gallery filled with the
treasures of the monastery, beautiful vestments, reliquaries and relics of the
Cross of Christ and of St. John the Baptist among others. We also saw the
beautiful library of the abbey which is still active today. The tour was about an hour long and ended
just in time for us to join the monks in prayer at noon which they do publicly
in their gorgeous chapel, which is really more like a basilica inside of the
monastery compound. After prayer and a walk around the church we went back to
the train station for the one hour ride to Vienna.
Once we got to Vienna we checked into our hostel, it was the
hostel with the finest location but was not very clean, my first time in a real
collegiate backpacker dirty but cheap hostel. I had not done much planning for
Vienna so I spent about an hour or so looking over some of the things we wanted
to see in the city. For dinner we took the metro across the city to Leopoldauer
Alm, a restaurant serving up huge portions of local food.
Chris and I dug into one of the group meals they offered.
The challenge, if we could finish the meal, we got a free bottle of wine! We
did not finish the meal, we did not get any free wine. But on the way home we
were able to give our hefty leftovers to some homeless men we came across while
on the way home.
The next day great perseverance paid off! The Fraternity of
St. Peter was offering Mass in the Kapuzinerkirche, translated Capuchin Church
at 8am. Finally I found where the internet said Mass was held, and it was
actually offered at the time advertised! It was a lovely twenty-minute walk to
the church I made both days in Vienna. After Mass I returned to the hostel and
Chris and I headed out for the day.
We walked around the “museum quarter” as well as the gardens once reserved for Austrian nobility
before going to the Kunsthistorisches Museum, one of the top museums in
Austria, full of classical art as well as a beautiful collection of royal
treasures. We spent probably two hours in the museum it was truly wonderful.
Afterwards we grabbed a braut in front of the Rathaus
followed by visiting the “Vigil Church”, essentially a cathedral for the
northern part of the city. It was in the process of being cleaned and renovated
but the steeples which had recently been finished were beautifully white. My
favorite feature unique to churches in this eastern part of Europe, at least as
far as I have seen is, is the stylized roofing made with different colored
shingles in geometrical patterns, this church as well at St. Stephen’s, the
Cathedral in Vienna, are wonderful examples of this uniquely beautiful roofing
style.
After touring the church we headed into the city center via
the subway planning to see St. Stephen’s. Once we arrived we found that the
tickets we were hoping to buy were no longer available that day so we planned to
come back to following morning to get a holistic experience of the cathedral.
We wandered around a bit before heading home for the evening.
The next day I got up and went to Mass with the FSSP once
again then we headed to the city center and breakfast at a café just around the
corner from the cathedral. Afterwards we
bought our tickets and climbed up the cathedral steeple. From the top we took
in the stunning view of the cathedral roof and city center just below, to the
Vigil church and royal palace out in the distance along with the whole of
Vienna.
Next we went to the Cathedral treasury housed in the choir
loft of the cathedral. We saw chalices and art, but the most unique thing about
the Cathedral treasury, once we had reached the end, we proceeded up a spiral
staircase into a room, this room had large wooden and glass cabinets filled
with relics of unimaginable number. Countless relics large and small, from the
most famous saints, even the twelve apostles, to the most obscure and unknown.
There was even an altar containing skulls of eight different
saints. After this overwhelming display we left the cathedral for a while.
Chris wanted to purchase a lederhosen for his coming trip to Oktoberfest, so I
waited while he tried them on in a tiny little shop filled with traditional
Austrian dirndls, lederhosen, hats and more. Once he had the perfect pair we
went back to the Cathedral for a tour of the catacombs. Below the church are buried both cardinals and
royalty along with many canons of the cathedral. In addition there are nearly
40,000 bodies buried under the church, from when there was still a graveyard,
and from the outbreak of the black plague, since their were too many people
dying to be buried they just put the bodies in piles in the catacombs. You can
still see many of the bones today and
they have all been disinfected so no risk of catching the plague while
on tour.
After the tour we got on the subway and headed back to our
place to pick up our bags and we were on our way to Prague.